The Kingdom of Bhutan, land of the Thunder Dragon, is the last standing Buddhist kingdom hidden in the eastern Himalaya. Bhutan caught my attention first when I read an article in BusinessWeek that it was ranked the happiest nation in Asia and eighth happiest in the world some years ago. Plastic bags are banned, tobacco is almost illegal, education and healthcare are free and the country measures the wellbeing of its people by Gross National Happiness (GNH) rather than GDP. In fact, article 9 of Bhutan’s constitution says: “The State shall strive to promote those conditions that will enable the pursuit of Gross National Happiness.”
In the fall of 2014, I went on a hiking trip across Bhutan to see some of the world’s most beautiful mountains, learn more about Buddhism and find out why Bhutan is such a land of contentment. I was wondering how GNH plays out for real in a fast changing society where Buddhism is deeply rooted. Deep down, I was curious to know what makes for happiness, period. The truth is, I had been drawn to Buddhism since my high school days back in Germany when I read Dalai Lama’s book “The Way to Freedom: Core Teachings of Tibetan Buddhism”. That was a time when I was, like most teenagers, not particularly happy and had questions like “why anything?”. Realizing I was probably pushing the edges of my own sanity, I was reading everything that came my way. Not being a big fan of organized religion of any faith throughout my life, I was impressed by the cultivation of mindfulness and ethical self-discipline of Buddhism.
A few more facts about Bhutan: sandwiched between Tibet in the north and India in the south; entirely mountainous, altitudes ranging from 500 feet to 23,000 feet above sea level. Home to just about 740,000 people — about the size of Switzerland but one-tenth the population. Capital: Thimbu. Language: Dzongkha, related to classical Tibetan, plus various other dialects. National sport: archery. Government: constitutional monarchy. Closed to outside world for centuries. Never colonized.
Whenever I read about Bhutan before my trip or saw photos posted by NatGeo photographers on Instagram, I was always fascinated by the extraordinary beauty of this place. And traveling there I felt the same way. Everywhere you look, breathtaking natural beauty, enchanted mountains, isolated valleys, lush forests, the fog and the mist in the morning, and the genuine nature of the people. Add to this mix the Buddhist culture that has tenaciously remained largely untouched by the outside world for centuries. Everywhere I went to take photos, be it in small remote villages and farms where time seems to stand still, on Tshechu, the annual religious festival where spiritual masked dances are performed, or in dozens of temples and monasteries where young monks live and study in a strictly disciplined setting, I was always welcomed with a smile, kindness and hospitality.
The thing that was most prevalent and amazing to me was the generosity of the culture and the openness of the people. In certain ways, everything seemed quite simple there. They don’t seem to have a lot, but the richness of their lives was evident based on their faith, their dedication and their commitment to one another. It’s been a great honor to travel in their homeland.
It’s hard not to hold romantic feelings about this country. But a place this beautiful won’t stay hidden forever. In coming years, for better or worse more travelers and tourists will surely flock there. Modernization and industrialization will continue, and western and outside influence will undoubtedly change things in some way. It’s inevitable. But right now, this place remains, however cheesy it might sound, mysterious and magical!
Excerpts from the lyrics of the song: "Oh! What a happy place is the land of the Thunder Dragon and the land of Buddha Dharma / where beautiful mountains stand tall / and its surrounding blossoms beneath / ... / may the peace and happiness of the people last forever / what a happy place is the land of the Thunder Dragon / ..."
